TESTING POWER RECTIFIERS AND
TESTING AND ADJUSTING
CONTROLLED RECTIFIERS
To remove the heat sink assemblies, each of the
electrical connections must be opened. The assembly is
fastened to the fan with two 5/ 16 in. tap-tite bolts.
When these bolts are installed again, after removal, they
must be tightened to a torque of 144 to 216 pound-inch (
16.3 to 28.1 Nm). When you install the rotating
rectifiers, put the terminal so that it is parallel to the long
edge of the heat sink. This makes it easier when you
are ready to connect the wires from the exciter armature
(L4).
The replacement of controlled rectifier (CR9) and field
rectifier (CR10) can be easily done by removing the
rectifier module (A2) from the regulator chassis. To
remove the module, each of the connections to spade
terminals (6, 8, 10, 11 and 19) must be disconnected.
The module can then be easily removed. The solder
connections on controlled rectifier (CR9) and field
rectifier (CR10) can be safely opened with a soldering
gun and needle-nose pliers. When you install either of
these units use a resin-core solder of the typically
60/40% (tin/lead) type. Use extra care to be sure that
too much heat does not destroy the rectifiers.
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