GEARBOX, FLYWHEEL AND FLYWHEEL HOUSING - P.2 FLYWHEEL AND FLYWHEEL HOUSING To Remove the Flywheel 1. Remove the gearbox and adaptor plate. 2. Evenly   unscrew   the   socket   headed   setscrews securing    the    driving    plate    assembly    to    the flywheel and detach the unit. 3. Knock  back  the  tabs  of  the  locking  washers  of the flywheel securing setscrews. 4. Remove  the  six  setscrews  and  lift  the  flywheel from the crankshaft flange. To   facilitate   the    removal    of    the    flywheel,    it    is recommended  that  two  diametrically  opposed  securing setscrews  are  removed  and  in  their  place,  screw  in  two suitably  sized  studs,  finger  tight  only.    The  remaining setscrews    can    now    be    removed    and    the    flywheel withdrawn under control. To Renew the Flywheel Ring Gear 1. Place   the   flywheel   in   a   suitable   container   of clean  cold  water  and  support  the  assembly  in the   container   by   positioning   four   metal   blocks under    the    ring    gear.        Arrange    the    flywheel assembly so that it is partly submerged in water with the ring gear uppermost.  The complete ring gear   must   be   above   the   water   line   and   it   is recommended  that  the  bottom  face  of  the  ring be   approximately   1/4   in   (6.35   mm)   above   the water level.  Heat the ring gear evenly around its circumference    using    oxy-acetylene        welding equipment,  thus  expanding  the  ring,  which  will allow  the  flywheel  to  drop  away  from  the  ring gear.    Lift  out  the  flywheel  and  thoroughly  dry  it off. 2. Ensure  that  the  registering  faces  of  the  flywheel and new ring gear are clean and free from burrs. 3.Heat the new ring gear to an approximate temperature of 475^oF (246^oC).  Fit the gear over the flywheel with  the  lead-in  on  the  teeth  facing  the  front  of the    flywheel    and    allow    the    ring    to    cool    in atmosphere. To Refit the Flywheel 1. It  is  most  essential  before  fitting  a  flywheel  that the   crankshaft   flange   face   and   periphery   are perfectly clean and free from burrs.  The mating faces   of   the   flywheel   must   also   be   absolutely clean and free from burrs. 2. It will be noted that there is a seventh untapped hole in the crankshaft flange, which is at bottom dead   centre   when   the   crankshaft   is   at   T.D.C. Nos. 1 and 4 pistons.  Mount the flywheel with Fig. P.2. Checking Flywheel Back Face run-out. the aid of guide studs to the crankshaft flange so that  the  untapped  hole  in  the  flange  is  in  line with   the   seventh   unused   smaller   hole   in   the flywheel.        This    ensures    the    flywheel    timing marks  are  in  a  correct  position  in  relation  to  the crankshaft. 3. Engage   the   six   securing   setscrews   with   three new   locking   washers   and   tighten   to   a   torque wrench reading of 74/80 lbf ft (10,3/11,0 kgf m) - 99/108 Nm. 4. Set   up   a   clock   indicator   gauge   with   the  base secured to the flywheel housing or cylinder block and   adjust   the   clock   so   that   the   plunger   is contacting  the  periphery  of  the  flywheel.    Turn the   crankshaft   and   check   the   run-out.      The flywheel  should  run  truly  within  0.012  in  (0.30 mm) total indicator reading. 5. Now  adjust  the  clock  gauge  so  that  the  plunger is  at  right  angles  to  the  crankshaft  flange  and rests    on    the    vertical    machined    face    of    the flywheel,  at  the  outermost  point  of  the  face  (see Fig. P.2). 6. Turn    the    crankshaft    and    check    the    run-out, shown  on  the  clock  gauge,  of  the  flywheel  face which should be within 0.0005 in (0,013 mm) per inch    (25,4    mm)    of    flywheel    diameter,    total indicator reading at right angles to the crankshaft axis. 7. When    the    flywheel    has    been    checked    for alignment    lock    the    setscrews    with    the    tab washers. 8. Refit the adaptor plate and gearbox, etc.